Making Quality Leathergoods
The Manufacturing Process
We make every one of our leather items entirely by hand. That is, we cut the straps by hand from the butt (the best piece) of , cut to length, cut the points, bevel and crease mark the edges, punch holes, stitch marks and chape holes. This leaves us with a blank that needs the edges finishing and and the buckles and other hardware stitching to become the finished product.
At this stage we dye, burnish and polish the edges, which is multi stage process that takes a considerable proportion of the manufacturing time for an item such as a belt. We work hard to produce goods with beautiful, tactile edges and continually refine our processes. Edgefinish is one of the easiest ways you are able to tell the quality of an item of saddlery or leather work - quality work will have smooth, polished, touchable edges that are an appropriate colour for the leather.iece) of , cut to length, cut the points, bevel and crease mark the edges, punch holes, stitch marks and chape holes.This leaves uswith a blank that needs the edges finishing and and the buckles and other hardware stitching to become the finished product.
Once edge finishing is complete, buckles and fixings are stitched in. All of our products are hand stitched, never riveted and never machine stitched. Though it may seem counter intuitive, stitching is always stronger than rivets as the leather has far less damage done to it when stitched and any load applied is distributed over the far larger area of stitching. As an example car seat belts areinvariably stitched, never riveted. In addition stitched leatherwork can easily and cheaply be restitched if the original stitching does rot or wear, not something that can't be said of riveted work. In our experience rivets anywhere in a piece of leatherwork point to corners cut by the manufacturer.
We always use a harness stitch using two needles and hand knot each stitch. This ensures that should an individual stitch wear through or be damaged, the rest of the line of stitching will not come undone as machine stitching would. We use several feet of thread in a product such as a belt and stitch at between 8 and 10 stitches per inch depending on the piece, the leather and the effect desired, far more than most of our competitiors. A product such as our lined and raised belt will have in excess of 1000 individual stitches, each and every one done by hand, and many many yards of thread.
We have invested much time and money over the years both on tools and our ability to use them, but we continue to refine and improve our techiniques. We are proud of the products we make, but we also work towards continuously improving.